This is the decision that matters most, because you can change the height after installation but not the plate.

The 11.8″ plate holds the shades close together, so the group reads as one tall object. Choose it for a round table, a small entry, or a stair landing — anywhere you want height rather than width.

The 19.7″ plate spreads the same shades apart, so each one sits on its own and the light covers more table. Over a dining table this is almost always the right answer.

Model A mixes three different cone sizes in one fixture — some wider, some taller, some shorter. That is why no two drops look alike on it, and it is the most varied of the three.

Model B: [__ MODEL B — describe what makes it different]

Model C: [__ MODEL C — describe what makes it different]

All three come on either plate size, and all three hang at the same drop. Not sure? Send us a photo of the room and we'll tell you which suits it.

No — that figure is the length of cord you receive, not a height you're stuck with. Every cord shortens on its own during installation, so you can hang this tight under a 9 ft ceiling or let it fall the full length into a stairwell.

Over a dining table, the lowest shade should sit 30–36″ above the tabletop — lower than feels right at first, but nobody walks under a table. Anywhere people do walk, keep 7 ft of clearance above the floor.

Need more than 59″ for a tall entry or stairwell? Tell us your ceiling height when you order and we'll send extra cord.

Because they're cut from real stone, not moulded from resin. Alabaster comes out of the ground with its own veining, and every cone is cut from a different piece.

So one or two will glow noticeably warmer than the ones beside them, and none will look exactly like the photograph. On a single shade you'd never notice this — hung side by side it's the first thing you see. That's what real stone does, and a set that matched perfectly would have to be plastic.

Both — and that's unusual. Each cone is open at the bottom, so a clean pool of light lands on the table underneath. At the same time the stone is thin enough to pass light, so the shade itself glows.

Most fixtures do one or the other: a shade that lights the table but stays dark, or a glowing shade that throws nothing useful downward. Here one piece of stone does both.

Bulbs are included, so every shade matches from day one and there's nothing to go and buy.

But the bulbs supplied as standard don't dim. If you want to dim it — and over a dining table most people eventually do — swap them for dimmable E12 or E14 bulbs in every socket, not just some, and pair them with a dimmer switch. Worth mentioning to your electrician: add up the wattage of all the bulbs together and check the dimmer is rated for that total.

Not all level. The cords arrive cut to different lengths on purpose — a cluster hung at one height looks like an accident, while staggered heights look like a decision.

Hang them all long first, look at the group as a whole, then shorten one cord at a time. And measure from the floor or the tabletop, not from the ceiling — that's what your eye actually reads.

A soft dry cloth on the stone, working from the highest shade down. Keep water off the shades — alabaster is porous, absorbs it, and leaves a mark that won't buff out.

No sprays, no polish, nothing abrasive. The metal plate can take a barely damp cloth followed by a dry one. Switch off and let the bulbs cool first. Once or twice a year is plenty.