Unlock Savings: Get 10% Off Automatically on Every Order!

Free standard shipping, all orders support 30-day returns

Your cart

Your cart is empty

The Manon Alabaster Decanter Chandelier hangs rounded shades of natural alabaster from slim black cords, each one narrowing to a short collar at the top the way a decanter narrows to its neck. The stone is cut thin enough to pass light, so each shade glows amber from within while the collar stays pale and cool — a gradient that happens inside the material rather than being applied to it.

Hung as a cluster, the cords are cut to staggered lengths so the shades fall at different heights and never line up flat. From below you look up through the group; from across a room you see a slow diagonal descending through the space. Choose a single pendant for a nightstand or a counter, a 5-light for a dining table, or a 12-light for a stairwell or a double-height entry. All on a black canopy and black cords.

Natural Alabaster

Naturally Unique Veining

No two pieces of stone are ever the same

Alabaster is a natural stone, so every piece carries its own veining and subtle variation in color. The fixture you receive may therefore differ slightly from the images shown.

An inherent characteristic of real stone — not a quality defect.
Specifications

The Details

Material Genuine Natural Alabaster Shades · Metal Canopy & Fittings Stone cut and polished; metal electroplated and finished.
Finish Black · White
Light source E26 or E27 socket Choose the base that matches your region — E26 in North America, E27 elsewhere.
Power Max 40W per socket
Voltage AC 110–240V
Control Wall switch — dimmable with a dimmable bulb on a compatible dimmer
Mounting Ceiling — hardwired, cord suspended
Environment Indoor only · IP20
Preparation time 5–10 days Made and inspected at our own workshop before dispatch.

Good to Know

The cords arrive at staggered lengths

They are cut that way on purpose — a cluster hung level looks like an accident. Each cord shortens independently on site, so you can tighten the spread for a table or open it out for a stairwell. Need more length for a tall void? Tell us your ceiling height when you order and we'll supply extra before it ships.

About dimming

Dimming depends entirely on the bulb you fit. Put in a dimmable E26 or E27 bulb on a compatible wall dimmer and the fixture dims; an ordinary bulb will not, whatever switch is on the wall. Use the same bulb in every socket rather than mixing types, and contact us before ordering if you'd like us to confirm the pairing.

Stone is heavier than it looks

Worth checking before you order the 5 or 12-light. Confirm your ceiling box is rated for the weight and fixed into a joist rather than plasterboard alone — a standard box carries far less than most people assume. Ask us for the exact weight of your configuration and pass it to your electrician.

Size Guide

Which Configuration for Your Space

Six versions of the same stone shade, from a single drop to eleven. On the clusters the height shown is the full drop from ceiling to the lowest shade — and every cord shortens on site.

1 Light
Shade ∅ 5.5″ × H 4.7″ ∅ 14 × H 12 cm · cord [__]
Best forBedside · powder room · in a row of 2–3 over an island · beside a mirror

Hang 30–36″ above a counter, 24″ above a nightstand.

3 Lights
∅ 7.9″ × H 59.1″ ∅ 20 × H 150 cm full drop
Best forBreakfast nook · small round table · short island · stair landing

The smallest cluster that still reads as staggered.

5 LightsPopular
∅ 11.8″ × H 78.7″ ∅ 30 × H 200 cm full drop
Best forDining table · kitchen island · living room over a coffee table

Over a table, shorten the cords hard — it's built to hang low.

7 Lights
∅ 13.8″ × H 98.4″ ∅ 35 × H 250 cm full drop
Best forLong dining table · open stairwell · double-height living room

At 8 ft of drop it needs a void, not a room.

9 Lights
∅ 17.7″ × H 118.1″ ∅ 45 × H 300 cm full drop
Best forTwo-story foyer · standard stairwell void · atrium

Mount over the void, not over the treads.

11 Lights
∅ 19.7″ × H 137.8″ ∅ 50 × H 350 cm full drop
Best forThree-story stairwell · hotel or office lobby · grand entry

Plan a lift for installation and for changing bulbs.

Sizing Tip

Read the height, not the diameter. These clusters are narrow and long — the widest is under 20″ across, so almost nothing here is decided by width. What decides it is the drop, and the figures above are the full drop from the ceiling to the lowest shade with the cords at their supplied length.

Then apply the right clearance for the position. In a walkway, stairwell or entry, keep 7 ft above the floor — so the 9-light at 118″ of drop wants a 14 ft ceiling or more. Over a table, ignore that: nobody walks underneath, so hang the lowest shade 30–36″ above the tabletop and let the cluster fall much further into the room than you would dare anywhere else.

Every cord shortens independently on site, so it is always safer to size up than down — you can take length out, but you cannot put it back. For a taller video, tell us the ceiling height when you order and we'll supply extra cord before it ships.

Arrangement

Every Shade Sets Its Own Height

The cords are not fixed at one length. Each one shortens on its own during installation, which means the same fixture can gather into a tight column or open out across a room.

Gathered

Cords kept short and close, drops clustered within a narrow band. Reads as one object rather than several lights.

→ Over a round table, an island, or a coffee table.

Spread

Cords angled outward and set to different lengths, so the drops scatter across a wider area. Covers more of a ceiling with the same number of shades.

→ Over a long table, an entry, or an open-plan room.

Cascade

Each cord a step longer than the last, so the drops fall in a continuous diagonal. Built to be seen from more than one floor at once.

→ Down a stairwell or a double-height entry.

How the adjustment actually works. Every cord runs from the ceiling plate to its own shade and shortens independently during installation — you set each drop to the height you want and lock it there. Hang them all long first, look at the group as a whole, then take length out one cord at a time.

One honest limit: the cords come out of fixed points on the ceiling plate, so "spread" means angling them outward as far as the drop allows, not moving the mounting points around your ceiling. The longer the drop, the wider the spread can go. Cords are supplied at [__ CORD LENGTH], and if you need more for a tall void, tell us your ceiling height when you order.

Which Configuration Goes Where

Six counts, three arrangements. This is the pairing that works in each room.

Configuration Arrangement Where it works Ceiling
1 Light ArrangementSingle drop Where it worksBedside · powder room · beside a mirror. Buy two or three separately and hang them in a row over an island — the most flexible way to light a long counter. Ceiling8–10 ft
3 Lights ArrangementGathered Where it worksBreakfast nook · small round table · short island · stair landing. Keep it tight — three drops spread wide just look sparse. Ceiling10 ft +
5 Lights
Popular
ArrangementGathered or spread Where it worksStandard dining table · kitchen island · living room. Gather it over a round table; spread it over a rectangular one. The count most rooms actually need. Ceiling10–14 ft
7 Lights ArrangementSpread or cascade Where it worksLong dining table · open-plan living · open stairwell. At seven drops it becomes the main event in the room, so give it room to breathe. Ceiling12–16 ft
9 Lights ArrangementCascade Where it worksTwo-story foyer · stairwell void · atrium. Set it as a diagonal so it reads properly from the landing as well as the floor. Ceiling14–18 ft
11 Lights ArrangementCascade Where it worksThree-story stairwell · hotel or office lobby · grand entry. Mount over the void, not over the treads, and plan a lift for installation. Ceiling18 ft +
1 3 5 7 9 11 15 · 20 · 30 · more →

Eleven is where we stop stocking — not where we stop making

Eleven drops fill a three-story stairwell. A hotel lobby, an atrium, or a banquet room needs more, so the count is not capped. Tell us how many and how you want them arranged, and we'll build it — same stone shade, same cord, just more of them. Send us your ceiling height and a photo of the space and we'll come back with a layout before anything is made.

The design

Stone Doesn't Want to Be a Sphere

Give it a belly and a neck, and everything changes.

Most stone pendants are globes, and a globe is the one shape that wastes what stone can do. Light enters it and leaves evenly in every direction — the same brightness at the top as the bottom, no shoulder, nothing for the eye to settle on. You end up with a glowing ball that could have been made of anything.

Manon was drawn the other way round. The shade swells at the base and draws in to a short collar, the way a decanter does, and that single change reorganises the light inside it. The glow gathers in the widest part and thins as the stone narrows — so each drop has a gradient that no one applied, no one painted, and no two of which are quite the same. Look up at one and you see something closer to a small lit vessel than a lamp.

Hung together, the cords are cut to different lengths on purpose. A cluster hung level is just a row; hung at staggered heights it becomes a slow diagonal falling through the room, and it stays composed whether you are standing under it, seeing it from a landing, or catching it from a doorway across the house. And because alabaster is quarried rather than moulded, the shades in your own fixture will not match each other — some milkier, some more amber, each with its own veining. That is not a tolerance we failed to hold. It is the only honest evidence that the stone is real.

— Cut from stone, arranged by hand, never twice the same —
Questions, Answered

Common Questions

Choosing a count, hanging it on a sloped ceiling, and what real stone looks like when it arrives.

Why don't the shades all match?

Because they are cut from real stone, not moulded from plastic. Alabaster comes out of the ground with its own veining, and every shade is cut from a different piece.

So on a 5 or 11-light cluster, some shades will look milkier and some warmer, and none will look exactly like the photograph. That is the proof it is real — a set that matched perfectly would have to be resin.

How many lights do I need?

Match it to the height of the space, not the floor area — this fixture is narrow and long, so width barely matters.

1 light over a nightstand or a counter. 3 for a breakfast nook or a small table. 5 for a standard dining table or island. 7 for a long table or an open stairwell. 9 or 11 for a two or three-story entry, where the drops can be seen from more than one floor.

Can I hang it on a sloped or vaulted ceiling?

Yes — cords hang straight down no matter what angle the ceiling is, so every shade will sit perfectly upright.

Two things to sort out. First, the round plate at the ceiling — the piece covering the wiring — is made to sit flat, so on a slope it leaves a gap on the high side. A sloped ceiling adapter fixes it: a small angled plate that goes behind it. Any electrician knows the part and most hardware stores stock one.

Second, and this one catches people out on a cluster: the cords all come out of a plate that is now on an angle, so shades on the low side of the slope end up nearer the floor than the ones on the high side. That can look wonderful or it can look like a mistake. Decide which you want before you fix the cord lengths, and measure each shade from the floor rather than from the ceiling. Tell us your ceiling angle when you order and we'll advise.

Can I change how low it hangs?

Yes. Every cord shortens on its own during installation, so you can tighten the whole cluster up for a normal ceiling or let it fall for a stairwell.

Over a dining table, hang the lowest shade 30–36″ above the tabletop — much lower than feels right at first, but nobody walks under a table and it is where it looks best. Anywhere people walk, keep 7 ft of clearance above the floor. Need more length than it comes with? Tell us your ceiling height when you order and we'll send extra.

Will I see the bulbs?
No. Stone is not see-through the way glass is — the light travels a short way inside the material and comes back out softened, so there is no bright spot and no visible filament. It is comfortable to sit under for an evening and comfortable to look straight at.
What bulbs does it take?
Standard screw-in bulbs — E26 in the US and Canada, E27 in Europe and most of Asia, up to 40W each. Choose warm white, around 2700K; cool white light fights the natural warmth of the stone and makes it look grey. Use the same bulb in every socket rather than mixing types.
Can I dim it?
Yes, but you need dimmable bulbs on a dimmer switch. An ordinary bulb will not dim whatever switch you fit — that is the most common reason people think a new light is faulty. Buy them all dimmable rather than mixing, and check your dimmer can handle the total wattage of every bulb together.
Is it heavy? Will my ceiling hold it?
Stone weighs more than it looks, and a 9 or 11-light carries a lot of it. Before ordering, check the electrical box in your ceiling is rated for the weight and screwed into a wooden joist, not just plasterboard — a standard box holds far less than most people assume. Five minutes with your electrician now saves a lot later. Ask us for the exact weight of your configuration.
Can I put it in a bathroom?
No. It is rated IP20 — indoor dry rooms only, with no protection against water or steam. Alabaster is also porous, so damp is bad for the stone as well as the wiring. Dining room, entry, stairwell, bedroom, living room: all fine.
How do I clean it?

A soft dry cloth, nothing else. Keep water off the stone — alabaster absorbs it, and the mark left behind will not buff out.

No sprays, no polish, no scouring pads. Switch off and let the bulbs cool first. Once or twice a year is plenty.

Installation

The Complete Installation Guide

Not sure how to wire it, how high to hang it, or whether you need an electrician? Our full guide walks through every step for US homes.

01

Power Off First

Switch off at the breaker and confirm before you touch any wiring.

02

Check the Box

Make sure your junction box is standard, secure, and rated for the weight.

03

Match the Wires

Black to black, white to white, ground to ground — the US standard explained.

04

Set the Height

Mounting heights and clearances for sconces, pendants, and chandeliers.

Read the Full Installation Guide

Free guide · Written for US homes · Opens in a new tab

Manon Alabaster Decanter Chandelier

SKU: V202608101-1
Regular price $595.00
Unit price
per 

The price includes tax, and free standard shipping within the U.S. is provided.

Availability
 
Tax & Shipping calculated at checkout.
With a brand-new lighting ambiance, let's usher in a hopeful 2026 10% Off All Lighting

Free Shipping on all orders

Hassle-free return within 30 days

Payment Security

The Manon Alabaster Decanter Chandelier hangs rounded shades of natural alabaster from slim black cords, each one narrowing to a short collar at the top the way a decanter narrows to its neck. The stone is cut thin enough to pass light, so each shade glows amber from within while the collar stays pale and cool — a gradient that happens inside the material rather than being applied to it.

Hung as a cluster, the cords are cut to staggered lengths so the shades fall at different heights and never line up flat. From below you look up through the group; from across a room you see a slow diagonal descending through the space. Choose a single pendant for a nightstand or a counter, a 5-light for a dining table, or a 12-light for a stairwell or a double-height entry. All on a black canopy and black cords.

Natural Alabaster

Naturally Unique Veining

No two pieces of stone are ever the same

Alabaster is a natural stone, so every piece carries its own veining and subtle variation in color. The fixture you receive may therefore differ slightly from the images shown.

An inherent characteristic of real stone — not a quality defect.
Specifications

The Details

Material Genuine Natural Alabaster Shades · Metal Canopy & Fittings Stone cut and polished; metal electroplated and finished.
Finish Black · White
Light source E26 or E27 socket Choose the base that matches your region — E26 in North America, E27 elsewhere.
Power Max 40W per socket
Voltage AC 110–240V
Control Wall switch — dimmable with a dimmable bulb on a compatible dimmer
Mounting Ceiling — hardwired, cord suspended
Environment Indoor only · IP20
Preparation time 5–10 days Made and inspected at our own workshop before dispatch.

Good to Know

The cords arrive at staggered lengths

They are cut that way on purpose — a cluster hung level looks like an accident. Each cord shortens independently on site, so you can tighten the spread for a table or open it out for a stairwell. Need more length for a tall void? Tell us your ceiling height when you order and we'll supply extra before it ships.

About dimming

Dimming depends entirely on the bulb you fit. Put in a dimmable E26 or E27 bulb on a compatible wall dimmer and the fixture dims; an ordinary bulb will not, whatever switch is on the wall. Use the same bulb in every socket rather than mixing types, and contact us before ordering if you'd like us to confirm the pairing.

Stone is heavier than it looks

Worth checking before you order the 5 or 12-light. Confirm your ceiling box is rated for the weight and fixed into a joist rather than plasterboard alone — a standard box carries far less than most people assume. Ask us for the exact weight of your configuration and pass it to your electrician.

Size Guide

Which Configuration for Your Space

Six versions of the same stone shade, from a single drop to eleven. On the clusters the height shown is the full drop from ceiling to the lowest shade — and every cord shortens on site.

1 Light
Shade ∅ 5.5″ × H 4.7″ ∅ 14 × H 12 cm · cord [__]
Best forBedside · powder room · in a row of 2–3 over an island · beside a mirror

Hang 30–36″ above a counter, 24″ above a nightstand.

3 Lights
∅ 7.9″ × H 59.1″ ∅ 20 × H 150 cm full drop
Best forBreakfast nook · small round table · short island · stair landing

The smallest cluster that still reads as staggered.

5 LightsPopular
∅ 11.8″ × H 78.7″ ∅ 30 × H 200 cm full drop
Best forDining table · kitchen island · living room over a coffee table

Over a table, shorten the cords hard — it's built to hang low.

7 Lights
∅ 13.8″ × H 98.4″ ∅ 35 × H 250 cm full drop
Best forLong dining table · open stairwell · double-height living room

At 8 ft of drop it needs a void, not a room.

9 Lights
∅ 17.7″ × H 118.1″ ∅ 45 × H 300 cm full drop
Best forTwo-story foyer · standard stairwell void · atrium

Mount over the void, not over the treads.

11 Lights
∅ 19.7″ × H 137.8″ ∅ 50 × H 350 cm full drop
Best forThree-story stairwell · hotel or office lobby · grand entry

Plan a lift for installation and for changing bulbs.

Sizing Tip

Read the height, not the diameter. These clusters are narrow and long — the widest is under 20″ across, so almost nothing here is decided by width. What decides it is the drop, and the figures above are the full drop from the ceiling to the lowest shade with the cords at their supplied length.

Then apply the right clearance for the position. In a walkway, stairwell or entry, keep 7 ft above the floor — so the 9-light at 118″ of drop wants a 14 ft ceiling or more. Over a table, ignore that: nobody walks underneath, so hang the lowest shade 30–36″ above the tabletop and let the cluster fall much further into the room than you would dare anywhere else.

Every cord shortens independently on site, so it is always safer to size up than down — you can take length out, but you cannot put it back. For a taller video, tell us the ceiling height when you order and we'll supply extra cord before it ships.

Arrangement

Every Shade Sets Its Own Height

The cords are not fixed at one length. Each one shortens on its own during installation, which means the same fixture can gather into a tight column or open out across a room.

Gathered

Cords kept short and close, drops clustered within a narrow band. Reads as one object rather than several lights.

→ Over a round table, an island, or a coffee table.

Spread

Cords angled outward and set to different lengths, so the drops scatter across a wider area. Covers more of a ceiling with the same number of shades.

→ Over a long table, an entry, or an open-plan room.

Cascade

Each cord a step longer than the last, so the drops fall in a continuous diagonal. Built to be seen from more than one floor at once.

→ Down a stairwell or a double-height entry.

How the adjustment actually works. Every cord runs from the ceiling plate to its own shade and shortens independently during installation — you set each drop to the height you want and lock it there. Hang them all long first, look at the group as a whole, then take length out one cord at a time.

One honest limit: the cords come out of fixed points on the ceiling plate, so "spread" means angling them outward as far as the drop allows, not moving the mounting points around your ceiling. The longer the drop, the wider the spread can go. Cords are supplied at [__ CORD LENGTH], and if you need more for a tall void, tell us your ceiling height when you order.

Which Configuration Goes Where

Six counts, three arrangements. This is the pairing that works in each room.

Configuration Arrangement Where it works Ceiling
1 Light ArrangementSingle drop Where it worksBedside · powder room · beside a mirror. Buy two or three separately and hang them in a row over an island — the most flexible way to light a long counter. Ceiling8–10 ft
3 Lights ArrangementGathered Where it worksBreakfast nook · small round table · short island · stair landing. Keep it tight — three drops spread wide just look sparse. Ceiling10 ft +
5 Lights
Popular
ArrangementGathered or spread Where it worksStandard dining table · kitchen island · living room. Gather it over a round table; spread it over a rectangular one. The count most rooms actually need. Ceiling10–14 ft
7 Lights ArrangementSpread or cascade Where it worksLong dining table · open-plan living · open stairwell. At seven drops it becomes the main event in the room, so give it room to breathe. Ceiling12–16 ft
9 Lights ArrangementCascade Where it worksTwo-story foyer · stairwell void · atrium. Set it as a diagonal so it reads properly from the landing as well as the floor. Ceiling14–18 ft
11 Lights ArrangementCascade Where it worksThree-story stairwell · hotel or office lobby · grand entry. Mount over the void, not over the treads, and plan a lift for installation. Ceiling18 ft +
1 3 5 7 9 11 15 · 20 · 30 · more →

Eleven is where we stop stocking — not where we stop making

Eleven drops fill a three-story stairwell. A hotel lobby, an atrium, or a banquet room needs more, so the count is not capped. Tell us how many and how you want them arranged, and we'll build it — same stone shade, same cord, just more of them. Send us your ceiling height and a photo of the space and we'll come back with a layout before anything is made.

The design

Stone Doesn't Want to Be a Sphere

Give it a belly and a neck, and everything changes.

Most stone pendants are globes, and a globe is the one shape that wastes what stone can do. Light enters it and leaves evenly in every direction — the same brightness at the top as the bottom, no shoulder, nothing for the eye to settle on. You end up with a glowing ball that could have been made of anything.

Manon was drawn the other way round. The shade swells at the base and draws in to a short collar, the way a decanter does, and that single change reorganises the light inside it. The glow gathers in the widest part and thins as the stone narrows — so each drop has a gradient that no one applied, no one painted, and no two of which are quite the same. Look up at one and you see something closer to a small lit vessel than a lamp.

Hung together, the cords are cut to different lengths on purpose. A cluster hung level is just a row; hung at staggered heights it becomes a slow diagonal falling through the room, and it stays composed whether you are standing under it, seeing it from a landing, or catching it from a doorway across the house. And because alabaster is quarried rather than moulded, the shades in your own fixture will not match each other — some milkier, some more amber, each with its own veining. That is not a tolerance we failed to hold. It is the only honest evidence that the stone is real.

— Cut from stone, arranged by hand, never twice the same —
Questions, Answered

Common Questions

Choosing a count, hanging it on a sloped ceiling, and what real stone looks like when it arrives.

Why don't the shades all match?

Because they are cut from real stone, not moulded from plastic. Alabaster comes out of the ground with its own veining, and every shade is cut from a different piece.

So on a 5 or 11-light cluster, some shades will look milkier and some warmer, and none will look exactly like the photograph. That is the proof it is real — a set that matched perfectly would have to be resin.

How many lights do I need?

Match it to the height of the space, not the floor area — this fixture is narrow and long, so width barely matters.

1 light over a nightstand or a counter. 3 for a breakfast nook or a small table. 5 for a standard dining table or island. 7 for a long table or an open stairwell. 9 or 11 for a two or three-story entry, where the drops can be seen from more than one floor.

Can I hang it on a sloped or vaulted ceiling?

Yes — cords hang straight down no matter what angle the ceiling is, so every shade will sit perfectly upright.

Two things to sort out. First, the round plate at the ceiling — the piece covering the wiring — is made to sit flat, so on a slope it leaves a gap on the high side. A sloped ceiling adapter fixes it: a small angled plate that goes behind it. Any electrician knows the part and most hardware stores stock one.

Second, and this one catches people out on a cluster: the cords all come out of a plate that is now on an angle, so shades on the low side of the slope end up nearer the floor than the ones on the high side. That can look wonderful or it can look like a mistake. Decide which you want before you fix the cord lengths, and measure each shade from the floor rather than from the ceiling. Tell us your ceiling angle when you order and we'll advise.

Can I change how low it hangs?

Yes. Every cord shortens on its own during installation, so you can tighten the whole cluster up for a normal ceiling or let it fall for a stairwell.

Over a dining table, hang the lowest shade 30–36″ above the tabletop — much lower than feels right at first, but nobody walks under a table and it is where it looks best. Anywhere people walk, keep 7 ft of clearance above the floor. Need more length than it comes with? Tell us your ceiling height when you order and we'll send extra.

Will I see the bulbs?
No. Stone is not see-through the way glass is — the light travels a short way inside the material and comes back out softened, so there is no bright spot and no visible filament. It is comfortable to sit under for an evening and comfortable to look straight at.
What bulbs does it take?
Standard screw-in bulbs — E26 in the US and Canada, E27 in Europe and most of Asia, up to 40W each. Choose warm white, around 2700K; cool white light fights the natural warmth of the stone and makes it look grey. Use the same bulb in every socket rather than mixing types.
Can I dim it?
Yes, but you need dimmable bulbs on a dimmer switch. An ordinary bulb will not dim whatever switch you fit — that is the most common reason people think a new light is faulty. Buy them all dimmable rather than mixing, and check your dimmer can handle the total wattage of every bulb together.
Is it heavy? Will my ceiling hold it?
Stone weighs more than it looks, and a 9 or 11-light carries a lot of it. Before ordering, check the electrical box in your ceiling is rated for the weight and screwed into a wooden joist, not just plasterboard — a standard box holds far less than most people assume. Five minutes with your electrician now saves a lot later. Ask us for the exact weight of your configuration.
Can I put it in a bathroom?
No. It is rated IP20 — indoor dry rooms only, with no protection against water or steam. Alabaster is also porous, so damp is bad for the stone as well as the wiring. Dining room, entry, stairwell, bedroom, living room: all fine.
How do I clean it?

A soft dry cloth, nothing else. Keep water off the stone — alabaster absorbs it, and the mark left behind will not buff out.

No sprays, no polish, no scouring pads. Switch off and let the bulbs cool first. Once or twice a year is plenty.

Installation

The Complete Installation Guide

Not sure how to wire it, how high to hang it, or whether you need an electrician? Our full guide walks through every step for US homes.

01

Power Off First

Switch off at the breaker and confirm before you touch any wiring.

02

Check the Box

Make sure your junction box is standard, secure, and rated for the weight.

03

Match the Wires

Black to black, white to white, ground to ground — the US standard explained.

04

Set the Height

Mounting heights and clearances for sconces, pendants, and chandeliers.

Read the Full Installation Guide

Free guide · Written for US homes · Opens in a new tab

Customer Reviews

Discover Our Collection -- When stone meets light

“A creation of nature, a vessel for light.”

Crafted from carefully selected natural alabaster, this piece preserves the stone’s most primal physical characteristics. As the stone is naturally formed, its internal mineral veining and depth of color vary from one piece to another. This unique “imperfection” is precisely what constitutes the most captivating charm of natural stone.

The Warmth of Artisanal Craftsmanship

Transforming a raw, rugged block into a refined work of art requires the artisan to engage in a slow, meticulous process spanning multiple stages. Following the stone's natural grain, they refine and polish it with painstaking precision.Preserving that texture closest to nature.

Why Choose Our Premium Materials?

Compared to ordinary materials, our products offer significant advantages in terms of quality, durability, and aesthetics.

Recommended Choice

Our Premium Materials

  • 100% Natural Stone
  • Hand-polished, Smooth Surface
  • Soft light for comfortable lighting
  • Each Piece is Unique

💎 Enjoy a discount when you buy now!

ordinary materials

  • Mass-produced by machine; poor workmanship
  • Prone to breakage after six months
  • May contain harmful substances

The Language of Stone

Every texture tells a unique story.

01

Pure

Pure

A pure white texture reminiscent of fresh snow—warm, smooth, and refined.

02

Ink-Dyed

Ink-Dyed

Deep, inky patterns flow across a white base.

03

Lightning Pattern

Lightning Pattern

A dynamic pattern resembling a bolt of lightning streaking across the sky.

04

Ice-Crackle Pattern

Ice-Crackle Pattern

Fine, intricate cracks evoking the aesthetic beauty of a sheet of ice at the moment it shatters.

05

Snowflake Pattern

Snowflake Pattern

A pattern as light and airy as falling snowflakes, with every single flake unique.

The variations in the veining of natural alabaster are what make it so prized; each lighting fixture bears unique natural markings—not flaws, but artistic value bestowed by nature.

Stone Carving — Transforming Stone into Beautiful Lighting Fixtures

Stone Extraction

Extract and select high-quality materials from natural quarries.

Cutting and Carving

Expert craftsmen shape each piece with meticulous attention to detail and design.

Grinding and Polishing

After multiple rounds of polishing, it gradually becomes extremely smooth, with a warm and jade-like feel.

Assembly and Inspection

Each model is meticulously curated, assembled, and tested.

EXPLORE OUR STORY

Discover our brand philosophy and product features through this video. We are dedicated to providing you with the highest quality products and service experience.

lEARN MORE

Exploring Natural Stone (Alabaster Lighting)

Discover Our Collections

Explore our curated selection of premium lighting designed to illuminate and inspire your space