A new perspective
Light changes everything
Discover sculptural lighting designed to bring warmth, character, and atmosphere to every room.
The Manon Alabaster Decanter Chandelier hangs rounded shades of natural alabaster from slim black cords, each one narrowing to a short collar at the top the way a decanter narrows to its neck. The stone is cut thin enough to pass light, so each shade glows amber from within while the collar stays pale and cool — a gradient that happens inside the material rather than being applied to it.
Hung as a cluster, the cords are cut to staggered lengths so the shades fall at different heights and never line up flat. From below you look up through the group; from across a room you see a slow diagonal descending through the space. Choose a single pendant for a nightstand or a counter, a 5-light for a dining table, or a 12-light for a stairwell or a double-height entry. All on a black canopy and black cords.
No two pieces of stone are ever the same
Alabaster is a natural stone, so every piece carries its own veining and subtle variation in color. The fixture you receive may therefore differ slightly from the images shown.

Dimming depends entirely on the bulb you fit. Put in a dimmable E26 or E27 bulb on a compatible wall dimmer and the fixture dims; an ordinary bulb will not, whatever switch is on the wall. Use the same bulb in every socket rather than mixing types, and contact us before ordering if you'd like us to confirm the pairing.
Worth checking before you order the 5 or 12-light. Confirm your ceiling box is rated for the weight and fixed into a joist rather than plasterboard alone — a standard box carries far less than most people assume. Ask us for the exact weight of your configuration and pass it to your electrician.
Six versions of the same stone shade, from a single drop to eleven. On the clusters the height shown is the full drop from ceiling to the lowest shade — and every cord shortens on site.
Hang 30–36″ above a counter, 24″ above a nightstand.

The smallest cluster that still reads as staggered.

Over a table, shorten the cords hard — it's built to hang low.

At 8 ft of drop it needs a void, not a room.

Mount over the void, not over the treads.

Plan a lift for installation and for changing bulbs.

The cords are not fixed at one length. Each one shortens on its own during installation, which means the same fixture can gather into a tight column or open out across a room.
Cords kept short and close, drops clustered within a narrow band. Reads as one object rather than several lights.
→ Over a round table, an island, or a coffee table.
Cords angled outward and set to different lengths, so the drops scatter across a wider area. Covers more of a ceiling with the same number of shades.
→ Over a long table, an entry, or an open-plan room.
Each cord a step longer than the last, so the drops fall in a continuous diagonal. Built to be seen from more than one floor at once.
→ Down a stairwell or a double-height entry.
How the adjustment actually works. Every cord runs from the ceiling plate to its own shade and shortens independently during installation — you set each drop to the height you want and lock it there. Hang them all long first, look at the group as a whole, then take length out one cord at a time.
One honest limit: the cords come out of fixed points on the ceiling plate, so "spread" means angling them outward as far as the drop allows, not moving the mounting points around your ceiling. The longer the drop, the wider the spread can go. Cords are supplied at [__ CORD LENGTH], and if you need more for a tall void, tell us your ceiling height when you order.
Six counts, three arrangements. This is the pairing that works in each room.
Eleven drops fill a three-story stairwell. A hotel lobby, an atrium, or a banquet room needs more, so the count is not capped. Tell us how many and how you want them arranged, and we'll build it — same stone shade, same cord, just more of them. Send us your ceiling height and a photo of the space and we'll come back with a layout before anything is made.
Give it a belly and a neck, and everything changes.
Most stone pendants are globes, and a globe is the one shape that wastes what stone can do. Light enters it and leaves evenly in every direction — the same brightness at the top as the bottom, no shoulder, nothing for the eye to settle on. You end up with a glowing ball that could have been made of anything.
Manon was drawn the other way round. The shade swells at the base and draws in to a short collar, the way a decanter does, and that single change reorganises the light inside it. The glow gathers in the widest part and thins as the stone narrows — so each drop has a gradient that no one applied, no one painted, and no two of which are quite the same. Look up at one and you see something closer to a small lit vessel than a lamp.
Hung together, the cords are cut to different lengths on purpose. A cluster hung level is just a row; hung at staggered heights it becomes a slow diagonal falling through the room, and it stays composed whether you are standing under it, seeing it from a landing, or catching it from a doorway across the house. And because alabaster is quarried rather than moulded, the shades in your own fixture will not match each other — some milkier, some more amber, each with its own veining. That is not a tolerance we failed to hold. It is the only honest evidence that the stone is real.
Choosing a count, hanging it on a sloped ceiling, and what real stone looks like when it arrives.
Because they are cut from real stone, not moulded from plastic. Alabaster comes out of the ground with its own veining, and every shade is cut from a different piece.
So on a 5 or 11-light cluster, some shades will look milkier and some warmer, and none will look exactly like the photograph. That is the proof it is real — a set that matched perfectly would have to be resin.
Match it to the height of the space, not the floor area — this fixture is narrow and long, so width barely matters.
1 light over a nightstand or a counter. 3 for a breakfast nook or a small table. 5 for a standard dining table or island. 7 for a long table or an open stairwell. 9 or 11 for a two or three-story entry, where the drops can be seen from more than one floor.
Yes — cords hang straight down no matter what angle the ceiling is, so every shade will sit perfectly upright.
Two things to sort out. First, the round plate at the ceiling — the piece covering the wiring — is made to sit flat, so on a slope it leaves a gap on the high side. A sloped ceiling adapter fixes it: a small angled plate that goes behind it. Any electrician knows the part and most hardware stores stock one.
Second, and this one catches people out on a cluster: the cords all come out of a plate that is now on an angle, so shades on the low side of the slope end up nearer the floor than the ones on the high side. That can look wonderful or it can look like a mistake. Decide which you want before you fix the cord lengths, and measure each shade from the floor rather than from the ceiling. Tell us your ceiling angle when you order and we'll advise.
Yes. Every cord shortens on its own during installation, so you can tighten the whole cluster up for a normal ceiling or let it fall for a stairwell.
Over a dining table, hang the lowest shade 30–36″ above the tabletop — much lower than feels right at first, but nobody walks under a table and it is where it looks best. Anywhere people walk, keep 7 ft of clearance above the floor. Need more length than it comes with? Tell us your ceiling height when you order and we'll send extra.
A soft dry cloth, nothing else. Keep water off the stone — alabaster absorbs it, and the mark left behind will not buff out.
No sprays, no polish, no scouring pads. Switch off and let the bulbs cool first. Once or twice a year is plenty.
Not sure how to wire it, how high to hang it, or whether you need an electrician? Our full guide walks through every step for US homes.
Switch off at the breaker and confirm before you touch any wiring.
Make sure your junction box is standard, secure, and rated for the weight.
Black to black, white to white, ground to ground — the US standard explained.
Mounting heights and clearances for sconces, pendants, and chandeliers.
The Manon Alabaster Decanter Chandelier hangs rounded shades of natural alabaster from slim black cords, each one narrowing to a short collar at the top the way a decanter narrows to its neck. The stone is cut thin enough to pass light, so each shade glows amber from within while the collar stays pale and cool — a gradient that happens inside the material rather than being applied to it.
Hung as a cluster, the cords are cut to staggered lengths so the shades fall at different heights and never line up flat. From below you look up through the group; from across a room you see a slow diagonal descending through the space. Choose a single pendant for a nightstand or a counter, a 5-light for a dining table, or a 12-light for a stairwell or a double-height entry. All on a black canopy and black cords.
No two pieces of stone are ever the same
Alabaster is a natural stone, so every piece carries its own veining and subtle variation in color. The fixture you receive may therefore differ slightly from the images shown.

Dimming depends entirely on the bulb you fit. Put in a dimmable E26 or E27 bulb on a compatible wall dimmer and the fixture dims; an ordinary bulb will not, whatever switch is on the wall. Use the same bulb in every socket rather than mixing types, and contact us before ordering if you'd like us to confirm the pairing.
Worth checking before you order the 5 or 12-light. Confirm your ceiling box is rated for the weight and fixed into a joist rather than plasterboard alone — a standard box carries far less than most people assume. Ask us for the exact weight of your configuration and pass it to your electrician.
Six versions of the same stone shade, from a single drop to eleven. On the clusters the height shown is the full drop from ceiling to the lowest shade — and every cord shortens on site.
Hang 30–36″ above a counter, 24″ above a nightstand.

The smallest cluster that still reads as staggered.

Over a table, shorten the cords hard — it's built to hang low.

At 8 ft of drop it needs a void, not a room.

Mount over the void, not over the treads.

Plan a lift for installation and for changing bulbs.

The cords are not fixed at one length. Each one shortens on its own during installation, which means the same fixture can gather into a tight column or open out across a room.
Cords kept short and close, drops clustered within a narrow band. Reads as one object rather than several lights.
→ Over a round table, an island, or a coffee table.
Cords angled outward and set to different lengths, so the drops scatter across a wider area. Covers more of a ceiling with the same number of shades.
→ Over a long table, an entry, or an open-plan room.
Each cord a step longer than the last, so the drops fall in a continuous diagonal. Built to be seen from more than one floor at once.
→ Down a stairwell or a double-height entry.
How the adjustment actually works. Every cord runs from the ceiling plate to its own shade and shortens independently during installation — you set each drop to the height you want and lock it there. Hang them all long first, look at the group as a whole, then take length out one cord at a time.
One honest limit: the cords come out of fixed points on the ceiling plate, so "spread" means angling them outward as far as the drop allows, not moving the mounting points around your ceiling. The longer the drop, the wider the spread can go. Cords are supplied at [__ CORD LENGTH], and if you need more for a tall void, tell us your ceiling height when you order.
Six counts, three arrangements. This is the pairing that works in each room.
Eleven drops fill a three-story stairwell. A hotel lobby, an atrium, or a banquet room needs more, so the count is not capped. Tell us how many and how you want them arranged, and we'll build it — same stone shade, same cord, just more of them. Send us your ceiling height and a photo of the space and we'll come back with a layout before anything is made.
Give it a belly and a neck, and everything changes.
Most stone pendants are globes, and a globe is the one shape that wastes what stone can do. Light enters it and leaves evenly in every direction — the same brightness at the top as the bottom, no shoulder, nothing for the eye to settle on. You end up with a glowing ball that could have been made of anything.
Manon was drawn the other way round. The shade swells at the base and draws in to a short collar, the way a decanter does, and that single change reorganises the light inside it. The glow gathers in the widest part and thins as the stone narrows — so each drop has a gradient that no one applied, no one painted, and no two of which are quite the same. Look up at one and you see something closer to a small lit vessel than a lamp.
Hung together, the cords are cut to different lengths on purpose. A cluster hung level is just a row; hung at staggered heights it becomes a slow diagonal falling through the room, and it stays composed whether you are standing under it, seeing it from a landing, or catching it from a doorway across the house. And because alabaster is quarried rather than moulded, the shades in your own fixture will not match each other — some milkier, some more amber, each with its own veining. That is not a tolerance we failed to hold. It is the only honest evidence that the stone is real.
Choosing a count, hanging it on a sloped ceiling, and what real stone looks like when it arrives.
Because they are cut from real stone, not moulded from plastic. Alabaster comes out of the ground with its own veining, and every shade is cut from a different piece.
So on a 5 or 11-light cluster, some shades will look milkier and some warmer, and none will look exactly like the photograph. That is the proof it is real — a set that matched perfectly would have to be resin.
Match it to the height of the space, not the floor area — this fixture is narrow and long, so width barely matters.
1 light over a nightstand or a counter. 3 for a breakfast nook or a small table. 5 for a standard dining table or island. 7 for a long table or an open stairwell. 9 or 11 for a two or three-story entry, where the drops can be seen from more than one floor.
Yes — cords hang straight down no matter what angle the ceiling is, so every shade will sit perfectly upright.
Two things to sort out. First, the round plate at the ceiling — the piece covering the wiring — is made to sit flat, so on a slope it leaves a gap on the high side. A sloped ceiling adapter fixes it: a small angled plate that goes behind it. Any electrician knows the part and most hardware stores stock one.
Second, and this one catches people out on a cluster: the cords all come out of a plate that is now on an angle, so shades on the low side of the slope end up nearer the floor than the ones on the high side. That can look wonderful or it can look like a mistake. Decide which you want before you fix the cord lengths, and measure each shade from the floor rather than from the ceiling. Tell us your ceiling angle when you order and we'll advise.
Yes. Every cord shortens on its own during installation, so you can tighten the whole cluster up for a normal ceiling or let it fall for a stairwell.
Over a dining table, hang the lowest shade 30–36″ above the tabletop — much lower than feels right at first, but nobody walks under a table and it is where it looks best. Anywhere people walk, keep 7 ft of clearance above the floor. Need more length than it comes with? Tell us your ceiling height when you order and we'll send extra.
A soft dry cloth, nothing else. Keep water off the stone — alabaster absorbs it, and the mark left behind will not buff out.
No sprays, no polish, no scouring pads. Switch off and let the bulbs cool first. Once or twice a year is plenty.
Not sure how to wire it, how high to hang it, or whether you need an electrician? Our full guide walks through every step for US homes.
Switch off at the breaker and confirm before you touch any wiring.
Make sure your junction box is standard, secure, and rated for the weight.
Black to black, white to white, ground to ground — the US standard explained.
Mounting heights and clearances for sconces, pendants, and chandeliers.

Natural stone lighting
The Vidir lighting edit
Most shades block light and let it out at the edges. Yet, this stone-textured lampshade manages to achieve exactly that.
Alabaster is translucent. Switch it on and the whole shade lights up from within, veining and all, instead of glowing only where the bulb sits. There is no bright spot to look at, because the light source is the entire surface.
The veining was decided underground, long before anyone cut it. Every shade carries its own pattern and its own faint colour shift — so the piece that arrives is not the piece in the photograph, and that is the point.
Resin and acrylic imitations go amber and brittle within a few years of sitting next to a warm bulb. Stone does not age that way. The shade you unpack is the shade you will have in twenty years.
Designed for better living
Use warm white (2700K). The stone itself has an off-white, creamy tone; cool light passing through it makes it look grayish and dingy, whereas warm light brings out that honey-like hue seen in the photos.
Alabaster is a natural stone that absorbs water and cleaning agents, which can leave permanent stains. Disconnect the power, let the bulb cool down, and then wipe the fixture with a soft, dry cloth—do not use water or spray cleaners.
The density of the stone is far greater than that of a glass shade of the same size; ensure the ceiling's load-bearing capacity is sufficient for safety.
A new perspective
Discover sculptural lighting designed to bring warmth, character, and atmosphere to every room.
Our product
Alabaster Cylindrical Chain Chandelier
Alabaster is translucent, so the light travels through the stone rather than escaping at the edges — the whole shade glows, veining and all. Every piece carries a pattern that was decided underground, which is why no two are alike.
Resin is cast in moulds, so the "veining" repeats from one shade to the next and the light passes through evenly with no depth to it. It also ages differently: sitting close to a warm bulb, resin tends to amber and grow brittle within a few years.
THE ART OF ALABASTER
The natural texture of alabaster brings a warm, mineral quality to the space. (Please contact us if you require a specific texture.)
A pure white texture reminiscent of fresh snow—warm, smooth, and refined.
Deep, inky patterns flow across a white base.
A dynamic pattern resembling a bolt of lightning streaking across the sky.
Fine, intricate cracks evoking the aesthetic beauty of a sheet of ice at the moment it shatters.
A pattern as light and airy as falling snowflakes, with every single flake unique.
Material · Method · Light
Every texture tells a story of natural light and patient craftsmanship.





Crafted from select natural alabaster, preserving its unique veining.
Meticulously cut and shaped by artisans.
Repeatedly ground and polished for a smooth, refined texture.
Carefully assembled and quality-inspected.
Custom Stone Lighting

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