No — and it isn't meant to be. This sconce spreads light rather than aiming it. The stone glows, light washes the wall behind, and the room softens. What you don't get is a beam pointed at a book.

So it's for atmosphere: a hallway you pass through, a landing, the wall beside a bed. If you also want to read in bed, pair it with a table lamp or a directional reading light. Asking one soft sconce to do both jobs is how people end up disappointed with it.

No. The LED is built into the fixture, so there's nothing to buy and nothing to replace — but there's also no bulb to swap for a dimmable one later. Fitting a dimmer switch won't work and can shorten the driver's life.

There is a way around it. Put the sconces on their own switch rather than sharing a circuit with the ceiling light. Then "sconces only" becomes your low setting in the evening — which is how most people use a fixture like this anyway.

Measure to the centre of the fixture, not to the mounting plate — that's the mistake behind most sconces hung too high.

Beside a bed: 36–40″ above the mattress. Beside a mirror: 60–66″ from the floor, one either side, 36–40″ apart. Along a hallway: 60–66″ from the floor, 8–10 ft between fixtures. Up a stairwell: 60–66″ above each tread, so the line climbs with the stairs.

More than you'd think. Light escapes around the panels and washes the surface behind, which is half of what makes this piece work — it's why the sconce looks like it's floating slightly off the wall rather than stuck to it.

A pale, smooth wall returns that light and the halo appears in full. A dark wall absorbs it, and heavy texture breaks it up. The sconce still glows either way, but on a dark wall the effect is quieter — worth knowing before you pick the spot.

Because they're cut from real quarried stone, not moulded from resin. Each panel has its own veining, and one is usually a shade warmer than the other when lit.

If you buy a pair for either side of a bed, that difference shows between the two fixtures as well. That's what real stone does — a set that matched perfectly would have to be plastic.

Where the upper panel laps over the lower one, there's a gap — and light escapes through it in a narrow bright line. It's the one hard edge of light on an otherwise soft object, and it's deliberate: without it, the whole thing would read as a single flat glow.

No — the LED is built in, running at warm white 3000K. Nothing to source, nothing to match, and no odd one out if you own a pair. The honest trade-off is that at the end of its life it isn't a bulb change: contact us if one ever stops working and we'll advise on parts.

Two, in most cases. At 7.5″ wide this is a modest fixture — about the size of a hardback book — and a single sconce on a wide wall looks lost.

It works hardest in pairs: either side of a bed, either side of a mirror, or repeated along a corridor. A single one is right in a genuinely small space — a powder room, a narrow entry, a stair landing.

It's a hardwired wall fixture and mounts to a standard wall box. Straightforward for a qualified electrician; not a job to improvise if there's no existing wiring at that spot. Cut the power at the breaker first and check with a voltage tester rather than trusting the switch. Mark the height before drilling — and if you're hanging a pair, mark both and stand back before either goes in.

A soft dry cloth on the stone panels. Keep water off them — alabaster is porous, absorbs it, and leaves a mark that won't buff out.

No sprays, no polish, nothing abrasive. The metal edge and bar can take a barely damp cloth followed by a dry one. Switch off and let it cool first. Once or twice a year is plenty.

A powder room with no shower or bath is fine. A bathroom that gets steamy is not — this is an indoor dry-room fixture with no protection against water or steam, and alabaster is porous, so damp is bad for the stone as well as the wiring. Beside a vanity mirror in a dry room, it's one of the best uses for it.