Differently from a normal chandelier, and this is the whole point of it.

The wiring comes out of the electrical box in your ceiling as usual. But instead of the light hanging straight down from there, the chain runs sideways across the ceiling to hooks that you screw in wherever you want, and the drops hang down from those hooks.

So you are drilling more than one hole — the box, plus one hook per drop. In exchange, you decide where every light ends up instead of being stuck with whatever spot the builder wired.

Yes, and it handles a slope better than most fixtures do. Chains hang straight down whatever angle the ceiling is, so every drop will sit perfectly upright. A fixture on a rigid rod would lean over; this one cannot.

Two things to sort out. First, the round cover plate at the ceiling — the piece that hides the wiring — is made to sit flat, so on a slope it leaves a gap on the high side. A sloped ceiling adapter fixes it: a small angled plate that goes behind the cover. Any electrician knows the part and most hardware stores stock it. Tell us your ceiling angle when you order and we will confirm what you need.

Second, remember the drops will hang at different distances from the floor if the hooks are at different heights on the slope. That can look wonderful — or accidental. Decide which you want before you drill, and measure each drop from the floor rather than from the ceiling.

Yes — this is exactly the problem a swag light solves, and it is why people buy them.

If your electrical box sits in the middle of the room but your table is off to one side, a normal chandelier leaves you with a light that hangs in the wrong place. Here you keep the wiring where it is and swag the chain across to hooks above the table. No rewiring, no electrician cutting into your ceiling, no patching and repainting.

The same applies if a beam, a vent, or a skylight sits where you would rather have the light.

A simple rule: about one drop per foot of table or island length. A 5 ft island takes five, an 8 ft table takes seven to nine. For an open room with nothing underneath, pick by how much of the ceiling you want the fixture to cover.

Then leave 12–18″ between the drops. Closer than that and they blur into one mass instead of reading as separate lights.

Yes. Every ring is cut and polished from genuine natural alabaster — not resin, not acrylic, not plastic made to look like stone.

You can tell when it arrives: real stone is cool to the touch and heavier than it looks, and every ring carries its own faint veining. On a fixture with several drops the rings will not match each other exactly. That is what real stone does, not a fault.

A bare pendant throws a lot of its light sideways and upward, where it does nothing except shine in your eyes. The ring catches that light and sends it back down onto the table. And because it is stone rather than metal, it does not reflect as a hard bright edge — the stone itself glows softly, so each drop reads as a small halo instead of a glare spot.

Yes, with a dimmer switch made for LED. The LED is built into the fixture, so there is no bulb to swap for a dimmable one — the dimming happens at the wall switch instead. Not every dimmer works with every LED, so tell us which dimmer you have before you order and we will confirm it is a match.

No. This is rated IP20, which means indoor dry rooms only — no protection against water at all, not even steam.

Dining room, kitchen, entry, bedroom, stairwell: all fine. Not a bathroom, not above a bath or shower, not a laundry, and not a porch or balcony even with a roof over it. Alabaster is also porous, so damp is bad for the stone as well as the wiring.

This matters more here than on a normal chandelier, because you are putting weight on points you chose yourself rather than on a box the builder installed.

Every hook needs to go into a joist or a proper anchor rated for the weight — never straight into bare plasterboard, which will pull out. Stone drops are heavier than they look. Mark all your hook positions first, check what is behind each one, and only then start drilling.

Switch it off, let it cool, then wipe each ring and drop with a soft dry cloth. Keep water off the stone — alabaster is porous and absorbs it, which leaves a mark you cannot buff out. No sprays, no solvents, no scouring pads. Twice a year is plenty.

That drop comes off on its own. Each one hangs from its own hook and its own chain, so a single damaged piece never means sending the whole fixture back.

If anything arrives damaged, send us photos within 24 hours of delivery and we will replace it. After that we keep spares — just tell us your finish and how many drops you have.