See It In Motion
Watch the Light Come to Life
The Leland Pivoting Cone Wall Sconce puts a slender cone shade on a jointed metal arm, with a ball pivot at the shade and a knurled thumbscrew at every hinge. Loosen a screw, move the arm, tighten it again — the light stays exactly where you leave it. The cone is cut at an angle rather than straight across, so the opening reads as an ellipse and the beam leaves at a slant instead of dropping in a circle at your feet.
Lighting fixtures are no longer merely decorative accents for furniture; they function more like mechanical devices, featuring slender stems, exposed joints, and compact shades designed for directional lighting. This design honestly reveals its mechanical workings, leaving no components concealed and allowing the joints to be adjusted directly by hand. Short-arm versions are suitable for fixed installations—such as near mirrors or doorways—while long, articulated arms offer the flexibility to extend light over a bedside, a reading chair, or a desk surface. In terms of materials, vintage brass creates a warm atmosphere, whereas polished nickel offers a cool, modern aesthetic with a distinctively mechanical feel.
Buying a Pair?
Select the size marked (*2) — two together come at a better price than buying them separately.
Three Joints. You Set the Height.
Raise it for a mirror, drop it over a book, swing it back against the wall when nobody's using it. Each joint moves independently, and each one locks where you leave it.
At the wall
The base hinge
Where the arm leaves the plate. Loosen the screw and the whole arm swings up or down as one piece, and rotates side to side across the wall.
→ Sets how high the light sits, and which direction it points from.
Mid-arm
The elbow
The wing screw here is the one you'll use most. Open the elbow and the shade travels further out and lower; close it and the shade comes back in and rises.
→ Sets how far the light reaches, and fine-tunes the height.
At the shade
The ball swivel
A ball rather than a hinge, so the cone tilts in every direction at once — down onto a page, up onto a wall, or turned to throw light along a hallway.
→ Sets where the beam actually lands.
Setting It, in Order
What You See Is What You Get
The cone alone — thin-walled, and cut on a slant
Every part it's made of, laid out
Described Honestly
Materials, reach and finishes listed exactly as they are — including which parts are brass and which are aluminium, and why.
Genuine Materials
A spun aluminium cone on a brass arm — no plated plastic, nothing hollow pretending to be metal. Photographed in our workshop, not rendered.
Nothing Sealed Shut
Every joint is a thumbscrew you can reach and re-tighten — so if it ever loosens after years of use, a quarter turn fixes it. Nothing is glued or riveted closed.
The Details
Good to Know
Why the shade is aluminium and the arm is brass
On an arm that has to hold its position, a heavy shade is the enemy. Aluminium is light enough that the joints keep their setting instead of creeping downward over the following weeks — and it still spins into a clean, thin-walled cone. The arm, joints and wall plate are brass, where the strength and the wear actually matter.
Snug, not tight
Each joint locks with a knurled thumbscrew. Hand-tighten only — firm enough that the arm stays put, and no further. Over-tightening wears the contact faces, and once they are worn the joint will never hold as well again. If a joint starts to drift after a year, tighten it a quarter turn rather than replacing anything.
Short Arm or Long Reach
Two versions of the same sconce. The shade is identical on both — what changes is how far it travels from the wall, and that decides which one belongs in your room.
Choose this when the light only needs to point, not travel.
Choose this when the light has to come to you.
A Light That Does What You Tell It
Every joint is visible. That was the point.
The Leland Pivoting Cone Wall Sconce comes from the decades when lighting stopped being furniture and started being equipment. Designers looked at the drafting table, the workshop bench, the surgeon's lamp — objects built to be aimed — and realised something ordinary sconces had been getting wrong for a century. A fixed light decides for you. An adjustable one asks.
So nothing here is concealed. The rods stay thin, the pivots stay exposed, and the thumbscrews are knurled because a hand has to turn them. You can see how it works simply by looking at it, which is the honesty a piece of equipment has and a decorative object usually does not. The cone is cut on a slant rather than straight across — a small decision that changes everything, because an angled mouth throws an ellipse instead of a circle, and lets you aim the shade almost sideways without the bulb ever coming into view.
What it gives you back is the thing no fixed sconce can. The book moves, so the light moves. Someone else takes the chair, so the light turns. You rearrange the room in three years and the sconce simply points somewhere else instead of becoming the thing that no longer fits. Aged brass reads warm and worn-in; polished nickel reads like an instrument. Either way it stays exactly where your hand left it.
Why Brass & Aluminium
Two metals, chosen for two different jobs. On a light with moving joints, that choice is the difference between one that holds and one that sags.
Common Questions
Will it stay where I put it, or droop over time?
It stays. Each joint is locked with a knurled thumbscrew — you loosen it, move the arm, and tighten it again. That is a mechanical lock, not just friction, which is why it holds far longer than the arms that rely on stiffness alone.
If a joint ever does start to move on its own after a few years, tighten it a quarter turn and it is fixed. Nothing needs replacing.
Why is the shade aluminium and not brass?
How much light does it actually give?
Will the bulb shine in my eyes?
Not at normal angles. The cone is cut on a slant rather than straight across, so you can tilt it close to horizontal and the opening still shields the bulb — a straight-cut shade starts glaring much sooner.
If you plan to aim it very low from a seated position, fit a frosted bulb rather than a clear filament one and the problem disappears entirely.
Which bulb should I buy?
Can I dim it?
Can I put it in a bathroom?
How do I clean it?
The Complete Installation Guide
Not sure how to wire it, how high to hang it, or whether you need an electrician? Our full guide walks through every step for US homes.
Power Off First
Switch off at the breaker and confirm before you touch any wiring.
Check the Box
Make sure your junction box is standard, secure, and rated for the weight.
Match the Wires
Black to black, white to white, ground to ground — the US standard explained.
Set the Height
Mounting heights and clearances for sconces, pendants, and chandeliers.
Leland Pivoting Cone Wall Sconce
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See It In Motion
Watch the Light Come to Life
The Leland Pivoting Cone Wall Sconce puts a slender cone shade on a jointed metal arm, with a ball pivot at the shade and a knurled thumbscrew at every hinge. Loosen a screw, move the arm, tighten it again — the light stays exactly where you leave it. The cone is cut at an angle rather than straight across, so the opening reads as an ellipse and the beam leaves at a slant instead of dropping in a circle at your feet.
Lighting fixtures are no longer merely decorative accents for furniture; they function more like mechanical devices, featuring slender stems, exposed joints, and compact shades designed for directional lighting. This design honestly reveals its mechanical workings, leaving no components concealed and allowing the joints to be adjusted directly by hand. Short-arm versions are suitable for fixed installations—such as near mirrors or doorways—while long, articulated arms offer the flexibility to extend light over a bedside, a reading chair, or a desk surface. In terms of materials, vintage brass creates a warm atmosphere, whereas polished nickel offers a cool, modern aesthetic with a distinctively mechanical feel.
Buying a Pair?
Select the size marked (*2) — two together come at a better price than buying them separately.
Three Joints. You Set the Height.
Raise it for a mirror, drop it over a book, swing it back against the wall when nobody's using it. Each joint moves independently, and each one locks where you leave it.
At the wall
The base hinge
Where the arm leaves the plate. Loosen the screw and the whole arm swings up or down as one piece, and rotates side to side across the wall.
→ Sets how high the light sits, and which direction it points from.
Mid-arm
The elbow
The wing screw here is the one you'll use most. Open the elbow and the shade travels further out and lower; close it and the shade comes back in and rises.
→ Sets how far the light reaches, and fine-tunes the height.
At the shade
The ball swivel
A ball rather than a hinge, so the cone tilts in every direction at once — down onto a page, up onto a wall, or turned to throw light along a hallway.
→ Sets where the beam actually lands.
Setting It, in Order
What You See Is What You Get
The cone alone — thin-walled, and cut on a slant
Every part it's made of, laid out
Described Honestly
Materials, reach and finishes listed exactly as they are — including which parts are brass and which are aluminium, and why.
Genuine Materials
A spun aluminium cone on a brass arm — no plated plastic, nothing hollow pretending to be metal. Photographed in our workshop, not rendered.
Nothing Sealed Shut
Every joint is a thumbscrew you can reach and re-tighten — so if it ever loosens after years of use, a quarter turn fixes it. Nothing is glued or riveted closed.
The Details
Good to Know
Why the shade is aluminium and the arm is brass
On an arm that has to hold its position, a heavy shade is the enemy. Aluminium is light enough that the joints keep their setting instead of creeping downward over the following weeks — and it still spins into a clean, thin-walled cone. The arm, joints and wall plate are brass, where the strength and the wear actually matter.
Snug, not tight
Each joint locks with a knurled thumbscrew. Hand-tighten only — firm enough that the arm stays put, and no further. Over-tightening wears the contact faces, and once they are worn the joint will never hold as well again. If a joint starts to drift after a year, tighten it a quarter turn rather than replacing anything.
Short Arm or Long Reach
Two versions of the same sconce. The shade is identical on both — what changes is how far it travels from the wall, and that decides which one belongs in your room.
Choose this when the light only needs to point, not travel.
Choose this when the light has to come to you.
A Light That Does What You Tell It
Every joint is visible. That was the point.
The Leland Pivoting Cone Wall Sconce comes from the decades when lighting stopped being furniture and started being equipment. Designers looked at the drafting table, the workshop bench, the surgeon's lamp — objects built to be aimed — and realised something ordinary sconces had been getting wrong for a century. A fixed light decides for you. An adjustable one asks.
So nothing here is concealed. The rods stay thin, the pivots stay exposed, and the thumbscrews are knurled because a hand has to turn them. You can see how it works simply by looking at it, which is the honesty a piece of equipment has and a decorative object usually does not. The cone is cut on a slant rather than straight across — a small decision that changes everything, because an angled mouth throws an ellipse instead of a circle, and lets you aim the shade almost sideways without the bulb ever coming into view.
What it gives you back is the thing no fixed sconce can. The book moves, so the light moves. Someone else takes the chair, so the light turns. You rearrange the room in three years and the sconce simply points somewhere else instead of becoming the thing that no longer fits. Aged brass reads warm and worn-in; polished nickel reads like an instrument. Either way it stays exactly where your hand left it.
Why Brass & Aluminium
Two metals, chosen for two different jobs. On a light with moving joints, that choice is the difference between one that holds and one that sags.
Common Questions
Will it stay where I put it, or droop over time?
It stays. Each joint is locked with a knurled thumbscrew — you loosen it, move the arm, and tighten it again. That is a mechanical lock, not just friction, which is why it holds far longer than the arms that rely on stiffness alone.
If a joint ever does start to move on its own after a few years, tighten it a quarter turn and it is fixed. Nothing needs replacing.
Why is the shade aluminium and not brass?
How much light does it actually give?
Will the bulb shine in my eyes?
Not at normal angles. The cone is cut on a slant rather than straight across, so you can tilt it close to horizontal and the opening still shields the bulb — a straight-cut shade starts glaring much sooner.
If you plan to aim it very low from a seated position, fit a frosted bulb rather than a clear filament one and the problem disappears entirely.
Which bulb should I buy?
Can I dim it?
Can I put it in a bathroom?
How do I clean it?
The Complete Installation Guide
Not sure how to wire it, how high to hang it, or whether you need an electrician? Our full guide walks through every step for US homes.
Power Off First
Switch off at the breaker and confirm before you touch any wiring.
Check the Box
Make sure your junction box is standard, secure, and rated for the weight.
Match the Wires
Black to black, white to white, ground to ground — the US standard explained.
Set the Height
Mounting heights and clearances for sconces, pendants, and chandeliers.
