It wires into one junction box in the usual way, and then the chains run out from that canopy to hooks you fix in the ceiling, each pendant dropping from its own hook. The canopy stays at the box; the lights hang where you decided.

That is the whole idea: the electrical connection and the position of the light are separated. A conventional chandelier ties the two together, which is why it can only hang in one place.

Plan for up to one hook per pendant — a five-pendant version needs up to five, a thirteen-pendant version up to thirteen. Chains can share a hook where two drops sit close together, so the real number is often lower.

Position is entirely yours, but do this first: mark the positions on the ceiling with tape and live with them for a day. It costs nothing, it is far easier than moving a hook afterwards, and it is the only reliable way to judge spacing in your own room rather than in a photograph.

This matters more than anything else on this page. Each hook carries the weight of its pendant plus the sideways pull of the chain, which is a different load from a picture hook.

Fix into a ceiling joist wherever possible. Where a hook has to land between joists, use a properly rated toggle or cavity anchor sized for the load. Never use a plain plastic plug in plasterboard — it will hold for a while and then it will not. If you are unsure what is above your ceiling, have an electrician or a handyman place the hooks.

The wiring should be done by a licensed electrician — it is a hardwired fixture and the power must be off at the breaker. The hook placement and chain routing is the part you can genuinely take on yourself, and arguably should, since you are the one who knows where the light needs to fall. Two people make it much easier: one holding the drop, one marking and fixing.

Yes, and cheaply. Unhook a chain, move it, and fill one small hole — no electrician, no wiring, no ceiling repair. It is worth knowing before you buy: if you rearrange the room in two years, the light rearranges with it. Almost nothing else on a ceiling can say that.

Choose by span rather than by room area, because you control the spread. Three suits a round table or a tight cluster; five is the most forgiving over a standard dining table; seven to nine spread along a long table or fall through a stairwell; eleven and thirteen become an installation across a room rather than a fixture over a piece of furniture. Two is the classic bedside pair. And take the smaller cone in high counts, the larger cone in low counts.

The cones are [__], with metal hardware in black or gold tone. [__ — add the two or three sentences that describe how this material behaves with light, and any natural variation the customer should expect. Do not publish this answer until the material is confirmed.]

Each pendant takes a standard E26 / E27 bulb, LED or Edison style, not included. Dimming depends on the bulb rather than the fixture: fit dimmable bulbs on a compatible dimmer circuit and the whole run dims together. A warm white around 2700K suits the pale cones best. Bear in mind that a high pendant count means a high bulb count — check the total wattage against your dimmer's rating.

Over a dining table, hang the bottom of the shade 30–36″ (75–90 cm) above the tabletop and keep the drops level with one another. In any walkway keep 7 ft (2.1 m) of floor clearance. Down a stairwell or in a corner, stagger the heights deliberately — a swag fixture with every pendant at the same height in an open space tends to read as a row of lamps rather than as one piece.

Each shade is wrapped individually and the chains, canopy and hardware are packed separately. If something arrives damaged, send photographs within 24 hours of delivery and we will replace the affected part. Because every shade hangs on its own chain, a single damaged cone never means returning the whole fixture.