A new perspective
Light changes everything
Discover sculptural lighting designed to bring warmth, character, and atmosphere to every room.
The Aveline Bracketed Alabaster Wall Sconce holds a single slab of natural alabaster between two curved metal brackets — one at the top, one at the bottom, gripping the stone at its ends the way a pair of bookends holds a book. That decision is the design. Most stone sconces set the slab into a surround, which means you see the frame first and the material second. Here the brackets touch the stone only where they have to, so what you look at is a bare panel of alabaster and two pieces of metal doing an obvious job. It is why a piece this simple still reads as considered rather than plain.
No two pieces of stone are ever the same
Alabaster is a natural stone, so every piece carries its own veining and subtle variation in color. The fixture you receive may therefore differ slightly from the images shown.

Select the size marked (*2) — two together come at a better price than buying them separately.
The light source is built into the fixture rather than screwed into a socket. The advantage: nothing to buy, nothing to replace, and no bulb visible inside the stone — which is part of why the glow is so even.
The trade-off is worth knowing before you order. The colour temperature is fixed at manufacture and cannot be changed later the way a bulb can, so check it suits your room. And dimming needs a dimmer designed for LED drivers — a standard incandescent dimmer will flicker or buzz. Ask us before you order if you are wiring it to an existing dimmer.
Set the centre of the fixture 60–66″ (152–168 cm) above the finished floor — roughly eye level for a standing adult, which keeps the light out of direct sightline. Beside a vanity mirror, 64–66″ puts the glow at face height; beside a bed or a reading chair, drop to 58–60″.
At a mirror, buy a pair and space them 36–40″ (90–100 cm) apart. Light arriving from both sides is what removes shadow from a face, and one sconce beside a mirror lights unevenly. Decide the height before the junction box is roughed in.
This is an indoor, dry-location fixture: hallways, bedrooms, living rooms, stairwells, beside a mirror in a dressing room.
Not for a bathroom, above a bath or shower, in a laundry, or on a covered porch. There are two reasons rather than one — the fixture is not rated for damp locations, and alabaster is a porous stone that does not want sustained humidity either.
One size, and four ways to use it. With a sconce the decision is never which size to buy — it is what height to set the box at, and whether you need one or a pair. Both are far easier to get right before the wiring goes in.

At this height the top of the fixture sits around 76″ — just under a standard door head, which usually reads well.
Lower than the mirror height on purpose: you are lying down, not standing.
In a corridor under 36″ wide, mount high and keep to one wall.
Measure from the tread below each fixture, never from a single floor level.
The one decision you cannot undo cheaply is where the junction box goes. Everything else about a sconce can be changed later; moving a box means opening a wall and repainting. So settle the height before the electrician roughs in, not after the fixture arrives.
A quick way to be certain: cut a rectangle of card 3.1 × 23.6 in, tape it to the wall at the height you are considering, and live with it for a day. Stand where you will actually stand — at the mirror, beside the bed — and check that the top of the fixture does not collide with a door casing, a picture rail or the top of a mirror frame. At 23.6 in tall this is a long sconce, and long sconces are far more sensitive to what is above and below them than small round ones.
Two figures to have before you order: the [__]″ projection from the wall, which decides whether it suits a narrow corridor, and the fixed colour temperature of the integrated LED, which cannot be changed once it is on the wall.
A sconce sits at eye level, which makes it a different problem from a ceiling light. Here is what changes when the source is hidden behind stone — including the one thing a shaded sconce still does better.
No, and this is the main reason to choose stone for a wall. The LED sits behind the alabaster cylinder, so light travels through the stone and leaves it already diffused. There is no source visible from any angle in the room — nothing to look into, only something to look at.
It matters far more on a wall than on a ceiling. A sconce mounted at 64″ is at the height your eyes are already scanning, and a visible bulb there is the reason so many sconces get installed, found uncomfortable, and quietly switched off for good.
No — the LED is integrated into the fixture rather than screwed into a socket. That is what allows the source to disappear completely inside the stone, and it means there is nothing to buy and nothing to replace.
The trade-off is real and worth knowing before you order: the colour temperature is fixed at manufacture and cannot be changed the way a bulb can, and you cannot make it brighter later. If being able to swap the light matters to you, a socketed fixture is the better choice.
Think of it as a warm ambient layer, not a room light. Stone absorbs a good deal of what passes through it — that absorption is exactly what produces the soft internal glow — and the cylinder here is slim, so a single sconce lights its own patch of wall beautifully rather than filling a room.
In a hallway, a run of them at 8–10 ft spacing is genuinely enough to move through a house by. Beside a bed, a pair gives comfortable light to talk and unwind by, though a dedicated reading light is better for a book. At a mirror, a pair is exactly right — the even bilateral wash is what a face needs.
Set the centre of the fixture 60–66″ (152–168 cm) above the finished floor for general use. Beside a vanity mirror, 64–66″ puts the glow at face height. Beside a bed, drop to 58–60″, which places the bottom of the stone roughly 20–24″ above a typical mattress.
At 23.6″ tall this is a long sconce, so check what sits above and below it — at a 66″ centre the top reaches about 78″, just under a standard door head. Decide the height before the junction box is roughed in; it is the one thing that is expensive to change afterwards.
No — and there are two separate reasons rather than one. The fixture is rated for indoor, dry locations only and has no protection against water. And alabaster is a porous stone that does not want sustained humidity, so even a well-ventilated bathroom is unkind to it over time.
It belongs in dry rooms: hallways, bedrooms, living rooms, stairwells, or beside a mirror in a dressing room rather than a wet one.
Dust only — never use water on the stone. Alabaster is a gypsum mineral and is slowly soluble in water, so a damp cloth used regularly will dull the surface and eventually etch it. Use a soft dry cloth or a dry brush on the cylinder, and keep solvents, glass sprays and all-purpose cleaners well away from it.
This matters more on a wall than on a ceiling, simply because a sconce is within reach and gets wiped without anyone thinking about it. The copper brackets will take a barely damp cloth as long as you keep it off the stone.
The Aveline Bracketed Alabaster Wall Sconce holds a single slab of natural alabaster between two curved metal brackets — one at the top, one at the bottom, gripping the stone at its ends the way a pair of bookends holds a book. That decision is the design. Most stone sconces set the slab into a surround, which means you see the frame first and the material second. Here the brackets touch the stone only where they have to, so what you look at is a bare panel of alabaster and two pieces of metal doing an obvious job. It is why a piece this simple still reads as considered rather than plain.
No two pieces of stone are ever the same
Alabaster is a natural stone, so every piece carries its own veining and subtle variation in color. The fixture you receive may therefore differ slightly from the images shown.

Select the size marked (*2) — two together come at a better price than buying them separately.
The light source is built into the fixture rather than screwed into a socket. The advantage: nothing to buy, nothing to replace, and no bulb visible inside the stone — which is part of why the glow is so even.
The trade-off is worth knowing before you order. The colour temperature is fixed at manufacture and cannot be changed later the way a bulb can, so check it suits your room. And dimming needs a dimmer designed for LED drivers — a standard incandescent dimmer will flicker or buzz. Ask us before you order if you are wiring it to an existing dimmer.
Set the centre of the fixture 60–66″ (152–168 cm) above the finished floor — roughly eye level for a standing adult, which keeps the light out of direct sightline. Beside a vanity mirror, 64–66″ puts the glow at face height; beside a bed or a reading chair, drop to 58–60″.
At a mirror, buy a pair and space them 36–40″ (90–100 cm) apart. Light arriving from both sides is what removes shadow from a face, and one sconce beside a mirror lights unevenly. Decide the height before the junction box is roughed in.
This is an indoor, dry-location fixture: hallways, bedrooms, living rooms, stairwells, beside a mirror in a dressing room.
Not for a bathroom, above a bath or shower, in a laundry, or on a covered porch. There are two reasons rather than one — the fixture is not rated for damp locations, and alabaster is a porous stone that does not want sustained humidity either.
One size, and four ways to use it. With a sconce the decision is never which size to buy — it is what height to set the box at, and whether you need one or a pair. Both are far easier to get right before the wiring goes in.

At this height the top of the fixture sits around 76″ — just under a standard door head, which usually reads well.
Lower than the mirror height on purpose: you are lying down, not standing.
In a corridor under 36″ wide, mount high and keep to one wall.
Measure from the tread below each fixture, never from a single floor level.
The one decision you cannot undo cheaply is where the junction box goes. Everything else about a sconce can be changed later; moving a box means opening a wall and repainting. So settle the height before the electrician roughs in, not after the fixture arrives.
A quick way to be certain: cut a rectangle of card 3.1 × 23.6 in, tape it to the wall at the height you are considering, and live with it for a day. Stand where you will actually stand — at the mirror, beside the bed — and check that the top of the fixture does not collide with a door casing, a picture rail or the top of a mirror frame. At 23.6 in tall this is a long sconce, and long sconces are far more sensitive to what is above and below them than small round ones.
Two figures to have before you order: the [__]″ projection from the wall, which decides whether it suits a narrow corridor, and the fixed colour temperature of the integrated LED, which cannot be changed once it is on the wall.
A sconce sits at eye level, which makes it a different problem from a ceiling light. Here is what changes when the source is hidden behind stone — including the one thing a shaded sconce still does better.
No, and this is the main reason to choose stone for a wall. The LED sits behind the alabaster cylinder, so light travels through the stone and leaves it already diffused. There is no source visible from any angle in the room — nothing to look into, only something to look at.
It matters far more on a wall than on a ceiling. A sconce mounted at 64″ is at the height your eyes are already scanning, and a visible bulb there is the reason so many sconces get installed, found uncomfortable, and quietly switched off for good.
No — the LED is integrated into the fixture rather than screwed into a socket. That is what allows the source to disappear completely inside the stone, and it means there is nothing to buy and nothing to replace.
The trade-off is real and worth knowing before you order: the colour temperature is fixed at manufacture and cannot be changed the way a bulb can, and you cannot make it brighter later. If being able to swap the light matters to you, a socketed fixture is the better choice.
Think of it as a warm ambient layer, not a room light. Stone absorbs a good deal of what passes through it — that absorption is exactly what produces the soft internal glow — and the cylinder here is slim, so a single sconce lights its own patch of wall beautifully rather than filling a room.
In a hallway, a run of them at 8–10 ft spacing is genuinely enough to move through a house by. Beside a bed, a pair gives comfortable light to talk and unwind by, though a dedicated reading light is better for a book. At a mirror, a pair is exactly right — the even bilateral wash is what a face needs.
Set the centre of the fixture 60–66″ (152–168 cm) above the finished floor for general use. Beside a vanity mirror, 64–66″ puts the glow at face height. Beside a bed, drop to 58–60″, which places the bottom of the stone roughly 20–24″ above a typical mattress.
At 23.6″ tall this is a long sconce, so check what sits above and below it — at a 66″ centre the top reaches about 78″, just under a standard door head. Decide the height before the junction box is roughed in; it is the one thing that is expensive to change afterwards.
No — and there are two separate reasons rather than one. The fixture is rated for indoor, dry locations only and has no protection against water. And alabaster is a porous stone that does not want sustained humidity, so even a well-ventilated bathroom is unkind to it over time.
It belongs in dry rooms: hallways, bedrooms, living rooms, stairwells, or beside a mirror in a dressing room rather than a wet one.
Dust only — never use water on the stone. Alabaster is a gypsum mineral and is slowly soluble in water, so a damp cloth used regularly will dull the surface and eventually etch it. Use a soft dry cloth or a dry brush on the cylinder, and keep solvents, glass sprays and all-purpose cleaners well away from it.
This matters more on a wall than on a ceiling, simply because a sconce is within reach and gets wiped without anyone thinking about it. The copper brackets will take a barely damp cloth as long as you keep it off the stone.

Natural stone lighting
The Vidir lighting edit
Most shades block light and let it out at the edges. Yet, this stone-textured lampshade manages to achieve exactly that.
Alabaster is translucent. Switch it on and the whole shade lights up from within, veining and all, instead of glowing only where the bulb sits. There is no bright spot to look at, because the light source is the entire surface.
The veining was decided underground, long before anyone cut it. Every shade carries its own pattern and its own faint colour shift — so the piece that arrives is not the piece in the photograph, and that is the point.
Resin and acrylic imitations go amber and brittle within a few years of sitting next to a warm bulb. Stone does not age that way. The shade you unpack is the shade you will have in twenty years.
Designed for better living
Use warm white (2700K). The stone itself has an off-white, creamy tone; cool light passing through it makes it look grayish and dingy, whereas warm light brings out that honey-like hue seen in the photos.
Alabaster is a natural stone that absorbs water and cleaning agents, which can leave permanent stains. Disconnect the power, let the bulb cool down, and then wipe the fixture with a soft, dry cloth—do not use water or spray cleaners.
The density of the stone is far greater than that of a glass shade of the same size; ensure the ceiling's load-bearing capacity is sufficient for safety.
A new perspective
Discover sculptural lighting designed to bring warmth, character, and atmosphere to every room.
Our product
Alabaster Cylindrical Chain Chandelier
Alabaster is translucent, so the light travels through the stone rather than escaping at the edges — the whole shade glows, veining and all. Every piece carries a pattern that was decided underground, which is why no two are alike.
Resin is cast in moulds, so the "veining" repeats from one shade to the next and the light passes through evenly with no depth to it. It also ages differently: sitting close to a warm bulb, resin tends to amber and grow brittle within a few years.
THE ART OF ALABASTER
The natural texture of alabaster brings a warm, mineral quality to the space. (Please contact us if you require a specific texture.)
A pure white texture reminiscent of fresh snow—warm, smooth, and refined.
Deep, inky patterns flow across a white base.
A dynamic pattern resembling a bolt of lightning streaking across the sky.
Fine, intricate cracks evoking the aesthetic beauty of a sheet of ice at the moment it shatters.
A pattern as light and airy as falling snowflakes, with every single flake unique.
Material · Method · Light
Every texture tells a story of natural light and patient craftsmanship.





Crafted from select natural alabaster, preserving its unique veining.
Meticulously cut and shaped by artisans.
Repeatedly ground and polished for a smooth, refined texture.
Carefully assembled and quality-inspected.
Custom Stone Lighting

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