No — and this is the most important thing to know before ordering.

There is no canopy plate and no single hole. Each strand runs from one anchor on your ceiling to another, so you need several fixing points with wiring run between them.

That's also exactly what makes it work: because the two ends are separate, the strand can curve the way it does and there's no fixture body to look at. Send us a photo of your ceiling and the span you want to cover, and we'll mark out where every anchor goes before your electrician quotes.

Three things, and they take a tape measure and a phone:

1. Your ceiling height. 2. The span you want to cover — how far apart the two ends should sit. 3. What's underneath — a table, a landing, an open floor.

With those we'll confirm the configuration and cut every strand to length before it ships, so nothing arrives too short to reach or hanging lower than you planned.

By the gap between the anchors. The strand is always longer than the span it crosses, and that extra length is what falls into the curve.

So anchors close together give you a deep, narrow drop. Anchors spread wide give a long shallow sweep. It's the same physics as a washing line — which is why it can't be got wrong, only planned. Tell us the depth you want and we'll work backwards to the anchor spacing.

Yes — the light runs the full length of the strand, so each stone glows from the inside rather than being lit from somewhere else.

That's why the veining shows individually in every bead: one pale and cloudy, the next with a strong amber grain. Strung together you see a line of separate small warmths, not one continuous tube of light. It's the clearest difference between real stone and moulded plastic, and it only shows when the light is inside.

No — the LED is built into the strand, running at warm white 3000K. Nothing to buy, nothing to match, and nothing to reach up into on a stairwell ceiling. If anything ever stops working, contact us and we'll advise on parts.

Yes, but only if you say so when you order. The LED is built in, so there's no bulb to swap for a dimmable one afterwards.

A dimmable version is available — tell us at the time of order, and tell us which dimmer switch you plan to use so we can confirm the pairing works. Over a dining table or in a stairwell most people eventually want the light lower, so it's worth deciding now.

Yes. Each piece is an independent strand with its own anchors, so two or three can share a ceiling and read as one arrangement. Nothing is joined and nothing is modified.

Two rules if you do: hang each one noticeably deeper than the last (matched depths cancel each other out and read as one thick line), and offset the anchor positions sideways so the curves cross rather than nest. Three is usually the limit in one space.

The weight is spread across several anchors rather than hanging from one point, which helps a great deal — but each anchor still needs fixing into the structure above rather than plasterboard alone. Have your electrician confirm every point before installation day, and ask us for the weight of your configuration to pass on.

Over a dining table, keep the lowest bead 30–36″ above the tabletop — lower than instinct suggests, but nobody walks under a table. Anywhere people walk beneath it, keep 7 ft of clearance above the floor. In a stairwell, check the lowest point of the curve against every landing it passes, not just the floor at the bottom — that's the mistake people make, and it's expensive to discover after installation.

Because they're cut from quarried stone rather than moulded. Every bead carries its own veining — some almost clear, some with a strong amber grain running through them.

On a strand hung side by side and lit from within, that variation is the first thing anyone notices. A strand where every bead matched would have to be resin.

Send us photographs within 24 hours of delivery if anything arrives damaged and we'll sort out a replacement. Beyond that, contact us with the configuration you own and we'll advise — don't attempt to open or re-string it yourself, since the lighting runs through the strand.

A soft dry cloth along the beads. Keep water off the stone — alabaster is porous, absorbs it, and leaves a mark that won't buff out.

Switch off and let it cool first. Once or twice a year is plenty — and if it's in a stairwell, do it from a proper platform rather than a ladder on the treads.

No — indoor dry rooms only. There's no protection against water or steam, and alabaster is porous, so damp is bad for the stone as well as the wiring. Dining rooms, entries, stairwells, hallways and living rooms are all fine.