At a mirror, always a pair. One sconce lights half a face and leaves the other half in shadow. Space them 36–40″ (90–100 cm) apart with both centres at the same height, and set them to sit just outside the edges of the glass.

Beside a bed, a pair unless only one side is used. In a hallway, one every 8–10 ft. A single works well in an alcove, above a console, or at the end of a hall.

Yes — the bar is solid cut crystal, not an acrylic tube with facet lines on it. Two things tell you, and both are easy to check: it is cool to the touch and heavy for its size, and the facets still catch daylight with the fixture switched off. A pressed or printed facet does neither — it feels warm and light, and it looks like a grey tube until you turn it on.

A round rod gives one unbroken line of light — calm, and a little dull. Cut planes run the full length of this bar, so light is turned at every face and the line breaks into a series of small bright highlights instead. Walk past it and those highlights travel with you. It is a fixture that never moves, doing something that never quite settles.

Gold warms the crystal and suits oak, cream and plaster rooms. Black gives the sharpest contrast — the bar reads as a bright line against a dark stroke, and it is the strongest choice on a pale wall. Nickel keeps metal and crystal equally cool and quiet, and comes closest to disappearing. All three are available in all six sizes.

Width first. The narrow bar reads as a line and settles into a room; the wide one reads as a block and holds a wall on its own. Then height: the shortest is the mirror size, the middle suits most rooms, and the tallest is a statement that needs a plain wall to itself.

For a corridor, the number that matters is the [__]″ projection from the wall, not the width of the fixture. In a corridor under 36″ (90 cm) wide, keep to one wall and choose the narrow bar.

No — the LED is built into the fixture. Nothing to buy and nothing to replace, and it is what produces an unbroken line of light down the whole bar rather than a bulb glowing at one point inside it. The trade-off is worth knowing before you order: the colour temperature is fixed at manufacture and cannot be changed later the way a bulb can.

Yes, with the right dimmer. A built-in LED runs on a driver, so it needs a dimmer designed for LED loads — usually a trailing-edge type. A standard old-style dimmer will make it flicker, buzz, or refuse to dim at the bottom of its range. Tell us what dimmer you have before ordering and we will confirm compatibility or advise what to fit.

It is a hardwired fixture — no cord, no plug — and wiring should be done by a licensed electrician with the power off at the breaker. The backplate mounts to a standard wall junction box. The crystal bar is heavier than it looks, so two people make it considerably easier: one supporting the bar, one fixing the plate. Fitting a pair? Mark both heights on the wall and check them against each other before drilling anything.

This is an indoor, dry-location fixture — hallways, bedrooms, living rooms, stairwells, or beside a mirror in a dressing room. Not above a bath or shower, and not in a laundry or on a covered porch. If you are lighting a bathroom mirror, tell us where it would sit relative to the bath and basin and we will say honestly whether it suits that position — the rules depend on distance from water, not on the room's name.

A soft dry cloth down the length of the bar, or barely damp for fingerprints. Cut facets show marks sooner than a smooth surface does — that is the price of the sparkle — so a quick pass every few weeks keeps it right. Avoid abrasive pads and ammonia-based sprays, and switch off and let it cool first.

The crystal bar is wrapped and foam-seated on its own, with the backplate and brass hardware packed apart from it. If something arrives damaged, send photographs within 24 hours of delivery and the affected part is replaced.